promised to tell you about Safed. This dear little town in the Upper Galilee. Stands on Mount Canaan and gleams sun-oily-blue fences, facades and shutters. All guides Safed insistently repeated that the blue color here serves a protective function and drives away the devil. Just think, if I had known that the devil is afraid of the blue!
around Safed blue mountains
and translucent blue air. There's just blue rivers. But if you look long and diligently in the south-east, turning blue in the distance you can see the Sea of Galilee
Today Safed sleepy and malolyuden. This happens with cities that have had a sip of historic Down and Out. In the last days of Judah are sheltering rebels Zealots. Then here came the Arabs. Quite a long time mountain belonged to the Crusaders. They have left behind the ruins of these characteristics. Later in Safed foothold Turks, who were allowed to settle Jews there. They are here and immediately began to flow from the blazing fires of inquisition in Spain. In the 15 century, one square meter Safed had two scientists tzaddik - the city became a center for the study of Kabbalah. In addition, here lived and worked (heh heh) Joseph Caro. His six-volume work "Shulchan Aruch was born precisely in Safed. Who in the course, he knows that then are done with this immutable Jewish Code of grateful descendants.
Safed and this day remains the largest center of Judaism. In the mid-18 th century it was chosen by the Hasidim. They are here and to this day. But everyone who wants to look at Safed haredimny, can look at
previous topic . Here I'll show Safed galleries. Community of artists is not smaller, than the Haredi community. They have occupied the former the Arab part of town and made it one big art gallery. Not Safed, but just some of Cusco.
Independent cats - part of local color. Here, they are not so serious and apocalyptic, as in Jerusalem.
Safed Artists come here from St. Petersburg. Almost all of them of Russian origin, What do the names of their galleries and art scenes. Here's Maria invites you to a gallery named after himself. With visitors artists behave strangely. It is clear that they need sell their work to recoup the place under the sun, but it seems that a long serving Mammon slightly damaged the purity of their artistic perception.
- Buy engravings, this is a good gift. Look how cute and familiar landscapes. No, it's print. Original is out there and worth 100 shekels more. This street, and this light ... this you never see. And you know why so many in Safed blue? Self-portrait of another gallerist from Safed. Not that Solomon, not Simeon. In addition to paintings (like his and others'), Simon offers to buy his collection of poems with a kind of pathetic name (either outcome, or relocation). Book is divided into two parts. The first - a bad imitation of M.. "Leave", "Leaving," "collect vses your trash," "fear" losing "blah la blah. Russian immigrants are very fond of lyrically tragic obmusolit theme of his departure from the moth. The second part tells us that Simeon was finally on the "lean ground Fathers." Stifled hihiknuv, put a book in the window and decided to make feet from the gallery. Come out for me Voronoff immediately navstavlyal
- I do not understand your sarcasm! When we were in your Sergiev-Posad, you're there with some of the poet Ananicheva bought a book with even more, to the same anti-Semitic ravings. Dear friend of course was wrong. Book in Our Posada bought not for me, and my angry monologue about govnopoetov all sorts and nationalities, he naturally forgot. Whatever it was, long life you Simon / Solomon
Anyway, getting back on the streets Tsfta. They are very cozy. Especially with these little coffee shops and bentwood chairs.
went into another gallery. The owner turned out to be an Israeli without reflections. Offered us something to drink.
We drank. Cider with cinnamon.
While we were warming up (in Safed quite cold, the winter as in any way). Owner maintained with our small talk, and gave some practical advice, where to go in these parts. Nice to have him there.
garbage in Safed, too, with his flair
Once Safed was Arabic. Here, even the mosque survived. Now there is another gallery. Arabs of Safed cleaned fighters "Palmach and the Haganah during the War of Independence. Needless to say, the Arabs themselves that war is called the Holocaust.
Of Quarter Artists spilled over into the Jewish quarter. Wanted to visit the family dairy Meer, which has existed here for 200 years. Doing here Safed - semisolid genus salted cheese. In Safed many cheese factories, but that - with the story. The house belongs to an ancient family of Meer. The patriarch of the clan arrived here from Baghdad, and began make cheese. Bequeathed to his sons do the same. They not only fulfilled the will of the patriarch, but kept the memory of it.
In a small cheese factory acts museum. On the walls of engravings and photographs of several generations of Meer. Among them were activists of the Jewish underground fighters, and the Haganah. In a word - true patriots. We were unable to see the process of making cheese - it was closed. Rang the bell. We met a serious unsmiling lady we bought it at a bank tsfatita, climbed to the balcony to look at turning blue neighborhood
balcony with garden utensils across the street.
what else to tell you about Safed? Old shoes there are the subject of outdoor decor
As well as clay pots
the Street pavement 500 years, no less
all remember why there's so much blue?
are leaving from Safed on the bridge, which is placed across the parched 5,000 years ago the track.
Arabs are landscapes called wadis. In the depths of tsfatskogo wadi is the Arabic village Akbar. The story of her pretty dramatic. During the Revolutionary War, people living here at home razed with the ground. Most families have fled to neighboring Syria. Remaining, according to Ben-Gurion's diary, was sent to Haifa, where he lived in a designated Arab areas. Sound familiar?
Today, however, Akbar once inhabited by Arabs, which the State of Israel pays good social benefits. road to Nazareth. In Galilee Evening.
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